The saddle stitch technique

I was thinking that maybe you didn't know that I don't use a sewing machine in the workshop.

"Huh? In leather?" But yes, I'll explain...

I discovered hand sewing and saddle stitching on the first day of my CAP in Leather Goods.
It was a revelation.

CONSUMER INFO : the term “hand-sewn” can only be given if the item is made without a machine, not to be confused with other terms such as “handmade” or “hand-made”.

My sewing is done using only one thread and two needles.
This is the famous saddle stitch.
The exact opposite of the machine which uses two threads and a needle.

A technique that makes my pieces durable and thanks to which I guarantee my sewing for life.

For what ?

• Because I already use linen thread , which contains lots of strong fibers so it's extra strong.
• Then because by using only one thread and two needles I pass with each of them in all the holes: this has a pulley effect. The pulling force on the leather is radically reduced.
• Then because I waterproof it with beeswax.
• And I also hit it with a hammer so that the linen fibers come to marry the leather fibers (leather -> skin -> collagen -> fibers); all of this ends up becoming one material over time.

I am often told that "it must be hard", "you must have huge needles", "your hands must be callused": no way! I have good sharp tools and a trade in my hands.

What if the thread breaks anyway?

Let's admit that the thread eventually becomes damaged by being worn on the outside, well know that before it becomes unstitched you have plenty of time to live your life.
The repair will be the responsibility of your descendants.
Believe me, I do repairs on very old objects and I will undo the hand stitching with tweezers to get the thread out!

If you don't believe me, come see me in action or try this technique yourself by participating in a workshop.
I DISCOVER THE WORKSHOPS

CULTURE POINT : sewing is by hand, stitching is by machine.

My secret technique for unmasking fraudsters

Unstoppable technique to recognize fraudsters/liars: the sense of the point!
I am then talking about grave and acute accents.
Place your item in front of you, with the edge horizontal.

When you look at a saddle stitch it leans to the right like a grave accent because hand sewing is a serious technique.
While the machine stitch leans to the left like an acute accent
-> Basic but unknown as a tip... I'm counting on you to pass on the info.

The labels I hold

Artisan d’Art because I have rare know-how registered with the Chamber of Trades and Crafts

Made in Paris because I make everything in my workshop in the 11th arrondissement

Made in France: cqfd

Repairers because I repair instead of throwing away, I am in an ecologically responsible approach

Thanks for reading & see you soon!

Karoline